This trek takes you through dense forests near Mahabaleshwar.
After a couple of hours of climbing we
reached a small hamlet. A group of thatched roofs clustered together. This is
the village of Ghonaspur. Most of the houses here have
a large courtyard in front of their homes, covered with a thatch to keep it
cool. We reached one such house and asked the lady if we could put our sacks
down for a while. Smilingly she also obliged with a bucketful of cold water to
drink.
A deep pull of this cold mountain manna and we were all refreshed. The people here are Lingayats and eschew alcohol. They grow their own vegetables, potatoes, and onions on land adjacent to their village. As we resumed our ascent we saw several women of the village busy harvesting the crop.
A kilometer up is the Gaodevi temple where
we decided to set up camp for the day. Since it was still a couple of hours for
the sun to set, we decided to trek right to the top of Makarandgad.
It is quite an experience to collect wood, get a fire lit, and actually cook something on it. The resultant food acquires a tang of warm wood-smoke. A delicious meal of khichadi made on woodfire, roasted papad, pickles and buttermilk was eaten with gusto. Earlier during the evening we had chatted with the villagers requesting some buttermilk. As there were several cows and buffaloes in the village there was bound to be some dairy production. The villagers are a genuine, proud and a reserved lot. A straightforward commercial offer is looked upon with distaste. Luckily they seemed to find us acceptable. Soon the ‘not available’ turned into a ‘yes’, and a large brass pot of buttermilk magically appeared at the temple. Before leaving we left some money with them for temple renovation.
Soon it was pitch dark. The night sky was awash with stars that glittered hard as diamonds. We could see the lights on Mahabaleshwar plateau glimmering across the chasm of the vast valley. It only served to emphasize our blissful solitude.
Nestled in the Sahyadris, this Maratha fort
was probably used as a watch-fort to guard a trade route connecting
Mahabaleshwar to Poladpur. Reaching a height of over 4000 feet, it was referred to as Saddleback by the British, due to the resemblance of its
two flattened humps with a ridge between, to a saddle.
Most of the trek route is
shaded as it passes through the jungle. Though the sun shone steadily a
friendly breeze cooled us. As we walked on, the forest spread out in the
valleys, unfolded its rich hues.
Declared as one of
the global biodiversity hotspots by Conservation International, the Sahyadri
range runs parallel to the west coast of India. In the west its steep face
falls away to the Konkan coast, while the eastern slope gradually runs down to
the Deccan plateau. Here you can find the
flowering Kinjal, the Kumbha with its gorgeous sweet smelling flowers, and
medicinal plants Hirda and Beheda. The doughty Anjan trees with their glossy
green leaves, blossom into flower, encasing the branches like swathes of thick
purple blue wool.
Summer is also the fruiting season for a
variety of plants here. Often you come across tall Jamun trees with their ripe
purple berries, wild fig with pink red fruit clusters, thickets of karvanda,
and a variety of other wild berries. Most of these have a delicious sweet sour
taste and attract a horde of birds, butterflies, boisterous langur monkeys and
the occasional sloth bear.
A climber flowering |
A deep pull of this cold mountain manna and we were all refreshed. The people here are Lingayats and eschew alcohol. They grow their own vegetables, potatoes, and onions on land adjacent to their village. As we resumed our ascent we saw several women of the village busy harvesting the crop.
Shiv Mandir right at the top |
At the top is a Shiva temple. This spot
affords some amazing views of the entire valley with folds of mountains
stretched out. From here is a path to the rarely visited peak, Madhu. The
breeze is quite strong. A bit of scree on the way makes the climb down a
slippery affair. Using a stout stick helps break possible stumbles.
Once back to the temple, we made some tea.
Water bottles were replenished from the tap in the village below. Chit-chat,
jokes, and much laughter filled the air as a cool evening breeze played around
us.
It is quite an experience to collect wood, get a fire lit, and actually cook something on it. The resultant food acquires a tang of warm wood-smoke. A delicious meal of khichadi made on woodfire, roasted papad, pickles and buttermilk was eaten with gusto. Earlier during the evening we had chatted with the villagers requesting some buttermilk. As there were several cows and buffaloes in the village there was bound to be some dairy production. The villagers are a genuine, proud and a reserved lot. A straightforward commercial offer is looked upon with distaste. Luckily they seemed to find us acceptable. Soon the ‘not available’ turned into a ‘yes’, and a large brass pot of buttermilk magically appeared at the temple. Before leaving we left some money with them for temple renovation.
Soon it was pitch dark. The night sky was awash with stars that glittered hard as diamonds. We could see the lights on Mahabaleshwar plateau glimmering across the chasm of the vast valley. It only served to emphasize our blissful solitude.
Later we spread out our bedding rolls in
the outer room of temple. It has a low concrete wall with iron grill above
supporting a corrugated asbestos roof. The night on the mountain was
unimaginably cold with a breeze that made us shiver beneath our summery
blankets! After a while we could only hear the sounds of the jungle – the chhzzz of cicadas and the
liquid sounding kappu kappu of the nightjars.
Sunrise at Makarandgad |
lovely photos - thanks for sharing...
ReplyDeleteSome great photos, especially the couple with the morning mist over the mountains.
ReplyDeleteThanks Liz, Jon. Have added a few more photos plus the write-up too.
ReplyDelete